Causes of Lick Granuloma

October 13, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Lick Granuloma Overview

When a moist oozing lesion develops on a dog’s skin, most dog owners want to identity the exact cause. If you’ve ever battled a fast spreading hot spot on your dog, you understand they don’t disappear overnight. It’s a battle that can last weeks. Just when a hot spot almost seems to have dried up, dogs either lick and scratch it, which brings you right back to square one. Interestingly, not all hot spots are caused by skin trauma. Many are self-inflicted by your dog and we call these lick granulomas.

What is Lick Granuloma?

Some hot spots are caused by skin irritants, such as flea bites, scrapes and allergens. However, excessive licking or scratching, which breaks skin and causes bacteria to set in, creates hot spots. Determining if your dog has a lick granuloma takes observation and a diary of events.

Many years ago, lick granulomas were considered a bored dog’s disease because it was assumed bored dogs would lick themselves when they had nothing else to do. When bored dogs would rather lick their paws or limbs instead of play with toys or enjoy a food stuffed toy, there has to be more to the story.

Lick Granuloma Causes

When drilled down, most lick granulomas are caused by a dog trying to self-soothe himself. He learns that slowly licking his paws or legs provides a calming effect. Self-soothing licking becomes a major issue when it becomes a habit. This is the first thing your dog does when he’s stressed. Your dog may be worried either because a new dog is added to your household or you’re away on vacation. As a result, your dog begins to soothe himself by licking. Self-soothing is normal. Humans reach for cupcakes or wine when they’ve had a hard day. When self-soothing begins to harm someone, then it becomes a problem.

Excessive licking can most certainly be caused by pain, so it’s important to rule out other causes before assuming it’s behavioral. Some dogs lick because there’s a foreign body trapped under their skin, a nerve has been pinched or they’re experiencing acid reflux.

How to Determine If It’s Behavioral

This is tricky because not all dogs display the same signs. I’ll share my personal dog’s behavior and several other behaviors I’ve witnessed while dogs have licked themselves to self-soothe. You’ll usually notice soft licking right before bedtime or naps. Sobek’s third eyelids will slowly slide up and cover his eyes–almost like he’s going into a trance. If you call your dog’s name while he’s licking, it’s almost like you’ve startled him. Sometimes, it feels good for your dog to lick an itch he’s licked before, so licking becomes a habit.

Keep a log of all your findings, focusing on when and where it happens. Is it after meals, before bedtime or when strangers visit? Does your dog slink away to lick, or does he lick other objects excessively like furniture, flooring and you? If possible, capture video and pictures, as this will further assist in finding the cause.

Lick Granuloma Treatment

If you suspect it’s behavioral, find a veterinarian who is board certified in animal behavior. These folks are vets who have completed a lengthy internship focused on successfully addressing behavioral concerns that cause medical issues.

As an experienced dog trainer, I’ll admit dog trainers are not equipped to manage lick granulomas. It’s completely out of our wheelhouse. Don’t get caught up with someone calling herself an animal behaviorist either. There is no such occupation, school or certificate program verifying someone as an animal behaviorist.

Now, dog trainers can certainly assist you after your veterinary behaviorist consultations. We can help teach your dog other ways to self-soothe himself besides licking. While it’s tempting to skip right to this part and bypass a veterinary consultation, it will take much longer for your dog to respond and that equals more vet visits to doctor up hot spots.

If you need help finding a veterinary behaviorist, I have some great tips and websites here. Do know even if you live in a rural area, your dog can still benefit from a veterinary behaviorist, as most will work with your regular vet. I’ll be brutally honest: it’s worth every penny to find a veterinary behaviorist, as you’re finding a solution now instead of spending hundreds of dollars on temporary fixes by so-called experts.

Until your veterinary behaviorist visit, continue to walk your dog, feed your dog using food puzzles and give calming products a try. Calming music, DAP products and supplements are great ideas. Just make sure your veterinary behaviorist is aware you’re using them. These suggestions won’t address the main issue, but they do provide an outlet for stress. Don’t forget to bring your log, pictures and video along to your consultation. It will help a ton!

Hot Spots on Dogs: Causes and Treatments

October 12, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Hot Spot Causes and Treatments

A hot spot is a pesky skin condition that can pop up on your dog’ skin within hours. These painful lesions can grow quickly–sometimes doubling in size within a day. Having a hot spot can become a vicious circle. The more a dog licks at the painful wound, the worse it gets, which causes further licking. I’ll share a few home remedies I’ve used for many years that can usually dry up most hot spots. If, at any time, hot spots remain the same or worsen, it’s time to schedule a veterinary visit.

What Causes Hot Spots?

Anything that irritates your dog’s skin barrier can cause a hot spot. Flea bites, tiny scrapes or allergies are known culprits, as they allow bacteria to set up shop in your dog’s skin. Usually, these irritations cause your dog to lick the area, which makes things much worse. When a dog’s skin itches, hurts or burns, he’ll most likely react by scratching or licking the area. It’s his way of scratching an itch. Think about when you had chickenpox: it was almost impossible not to scratch, so now you understand your dog’s frustration.

Most dog hot spots look the same. They resemble inflamed ulcers. They are usually hot to the touch and moist and sticky. They either bleed or ooze, and the surrounding skin probably looks swollen due to inflammation. Remember, hot spots are very painful. You’ll probably notice your dog limping if hot spots form on his feet. Plus, hot spots can pop up anywhere. I’ve seen them on rumps, flanks, ears, necks, legs and feet. Basically, all of your dog’s skin is susceptible to hot spots.

How to Prevent Hot Spots

Treat your dog’s area for pests on a regular basis. I highly recommend using cedar oil because it’s safe and natural. If your dog is prone to seasonal allergies, address the issue before it becomes a problem. Your veterinarian can advise you when to begin giving your dog antihistamines to prevent flare-ups, but they work best before pollen counts rise. Keep an eye on any skin abrasions, and make sure they heal completely and your dog leaves them alone.

Home Remedies for Hot Spots

Everyone has her own hot spot home remedy, which works for her dogs. I’ve used these products for years and have had great success. You’ll certainly need to help your dog through the process, as hot spots need to be cleaned three or four times per day, so your vigilance is a huge part of success.

Clean the area: Using an antibiotic cleanser made for dogs, gently clean the area. Personally, I use Nolvasan Wound Cleanser, which contains chlorhexidine, which kills bacteria on skin. Remember to be gentle. Hot spots hurt, so use warm water, touch lightly and pat dry. Clean your dog’s hot spot two to three times per day for quicker healing.
- If your dog’s hot spot is so painful that he refuses to allow handling of the area, it’s best to schedule a veterinary appointment within 24 hours. Some hot spots are excruciating, so your vet may need to sedate your dog to examine and clean the wound.

Remove hair: If needed, trim back excess hair to avoid it from sticking in the wound and causing further inflammation. I recommend using clippers or blunt-nosed scissors.

Apply topical antibiotics often: Once the area is cleaned and the excess hair is removed, apply a topical antibiotic. By far, I find sprays to be much easier, as ointments keep hot spots too moist and they never really dry up and heal. Usually, I spray Bacitracin on the area and allow it to dry for a few minutes.

Pain control: If your dog’s hot spot hurts, he’ll have a hard time ignoring the throbbing area. I rub a small dab of OTC hydrocortisone on the area to reduce the pain and minimize licking or scratching. Never give your dog any type of human pain medications, as they are lethal to dogs.

Keep your dog away from the wound: If your dog is allowed to lick or scratch a hot spot, the area will never heal and become much worse. Keeping your dog from licking or scratching the hot spot is by far the hardest part of hot spot treatments. Just spraying the area with a bitter tasting deterrent doesn’t work, and many products contain alcohol, which burns when it touches hot spots.
- If your dog’s paw is affected, try covering the area with a sock. Secure the sock by wrapping bandages along your dog’s pastern (wrist).
- Some dogs are persistent, so try using an e-collar, which keeps your dog from licking, pawing or scratching a wound.

WATCH: Teaching Your Dog to Wear a Cone Video

https://youtu.be/ugG4OXTQjBM

Keep hot spots clean and dry, and check them often. You’ll usually notice a huge decrease in oozing, heat and swelling within 12 hours. With persistence, most hot spots dry up and heal within 48 hours.

I highly recommend keeping a sock or e-collar in place until the entire area turns into a scab and completely disappears. So many times, we think a hot spot is healed, but then our dogs lick or scratch the area again, causing a hot spot to reappear quickly.

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Dog Breed of the Week: Weimaraner

October 8, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Meet the Weimaraner

The regal looking Weimaraner originated in Germany, as an all-around gun dog that could hunt a wide variety of game. Back in the day, Germany had very strict breed standards for the Weimaraner, which were overseen by the German Weimaraner Club. The breed was finally brought to the U.S. in 1929, excelling in obedience competitions and gaining exposure and interest in the breed. The AKC began recognizing this breed in 1943 as a gun dog in the sporting group.

General Characteristics and Temperament

The bold and outgoing Weimaraner stands anywhere between 23″-25’’ at the shoulder. Males are slightly larger than females. Their weight ranges between 55-90 lbs. You will find these dogs to be full of energy and playful, which may require you to come up with creative ways to expel all that energy. In addition to their playfulness, they will alert you if something seems off and protect you when needed.

Health and Nutrition

Weimaraners tend to be pretty healthy and have a lifespan of 10 to 13 years with the only major health concern being gastric torsion (bloat). However, you can help prevent bloat by feeding small meals throughout the day. There’s still a lot of speculation about bloat, but several veterinary universities are in the process of researching causes and links.

Weimaraner Grooming

If you have chosen a Weimaraner as your pet, you definitely get off easy in the dog grooming department. With these dogs having short smooth coats, you can get away with regular baths. Of course, you want to make sure their nails are kept trimmed and their ears cleaned to prevent buildup or overgrowth.

These dogs are best as indoor dogs with access to the outdoors on a regular basis. They can’t tolerate the cold weather, but they can tolerate heat.

Dog Training and Exercise

Last, but definitely not least, Weimaraners are best matched with very active families, as they require a lot of physical and mental stimulation. This dog breed is not meant for apartment living because they require a good amount of time outside to stretch their legs and run.

Exercise plays a big part in dog training and behavior for all dogs. The Weimaraner takes training well and learns quickly, but can be a little stubborn at times, especially if he doesn’t have the proper amount of exercise. Providing the Weimaraner with the right amount of exercise ensures a clear mind for training. By using positive reinforcement-based techniques, you facilitate a rewarding and productive experience for your dog.

Not every dog is right for every person. When choosing a dog, you want to make sure you find one that best fits with your dynamic.

For more information, please visit Weimaraner Club of America.

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How to Stop Your Dog From Eating Cat Poop

October 7, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Stop Your Dog From Litter Box Snacking

How to Stop Dog From Eating Poop — minoandriani/iStock

Dogs think cat poop is like cupcakes. They must have the cat poop and must have it now! I know it’s beyond disgusting and, unfortunately, I’ve never met a dog that could resist it. Cat poop is sometimes called “doggie crack” or “canine chocolate,” but I’m sure you’re just wondering how to stop your dog from eating cat poop, right? Well, I got you, and I’ll share tips that really work.

Why Do Dogs Like Cat Poop?

It’s a mystery why dogs are drawn to cat poop. We can speculate that the cat’s high protein and fat diet is appealing to dogs, but we really don’t know for sure. What I do know is allowing your dog complete access to the litter box will only make it worse. Let’s get started on how you can keep your cat’s litter box safe from canine scavengers.

How to Stop Dogs From Eating Cat Poop

Place Litter Box Up High

Find an area where your dog is unable to reach and set up your cat’s litter box there. Some pet owners set up their kitty’s litter box on top of the washing machine or dryer, and it works for some. I would probably discourage placing the litter box on top of these machines, as cats can be very finicky about their potty areas. I’m sure trying to potty during the spin cycle can be a bit alarming. 🙂

If you’re handy, build a raised study platform with plenty of room for your cat’s litter box. Add an easy-to-clean surface and additional square footage, so your cat can walk, turn around the litter box and exit either side of the box. Another benefit of a raised litter box is it’s super easy to scope–no more bending over.

Set Up a Barrier

Most pet owners find setting up a baby gate with a tiny access door built into the side of a gate provides cats easy access to their litter box while keeping the dog out. Just make sure your barrier is super sturdy and your cat can easily access his litter box when needed. If he can’t reach his litter box, he’ll use your plant dirt or whatever else is close by as his litter box and that’s a whole other issue.

Keep It Clean

Removing fecal matter right after it happens is the best way to keep your dog from eating cat poop. If you’re home, it’s a super fix. If you work away from home, I highly recommend having a raised litter box or placing the litter box behind a barrier.

Dog Litter Box Solutions That Don’t Work

Everyone has tips, but I’ll be extremely honest the below ideas just haven’t proven to work. If you’ve had success with them, you’re extremely lucky, so rejoice!

Enclosed Litter Boxes

For some reason, we feel that enclosing a cat’s litter box will keep our dogs from eating cat poop, but it’s just not true. I’ve witnessed numerous dogs carefully reach their heads inside the flapping door and eat their hearts out. Some exuberant pooches even end up wearing the top portion of the enclosed litter box, as a party hat. 🙂

Stool Deterrents

This is usually the first step most pet owners are given once they’ve discovered their dog eats cat feces. However, stool deterrents don’t work. Stool deterrents are added to your cat’s meal with the hope they’ll provide a nasty taste to cat feces. Um I would think cat poop would already taste awful, but I’ve yet to see this tip work. Again, if it has worked for you, bravo! You are super lucky. You may want to play Powerball on the way home today. 🙂

Punishment

Fussing at your dog when he’s caught raiding the cat’s litter box doesn’t work. Punishment will only teach your dog to quietly eat cat poop or only raid the litter box when you’re not around. If your dog is found eating cat poop, pledge to do better by moving the litter box away from your dog’s reach.

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How to Stop Your Dog From Eating Cat Food

October 6, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Keeping Your Dog From Eating Your Cat’s Food

If you share your home with dogs and cats, your dog eating cat food is probably a very common issue. Dogs love cat food. It smells better due to its large protein and fat content, and it’s usually sprayed with additional fats to entice finicky cats to eat it. Basically, cat food tastes and smells much better than dog food, so what’s not to love, right?

Well, cat food is terrible for dogs. Cats require higher protein and fat levels, so cat food can make most dogs very sick, especially if eaten long-term. As you probably already know, upset tummies, horrible gas and dreaded diarrhea usually follow occasional cat food raids if you’re lucky. Some dogs even require emergency veterinary care soon after.

How to Stop Your Dog From Eating Cat Food

In a perfect world, dogs would possess tremendous willpower to turn their noses away from tempting cat food, but it’s not going to happen. Can you always turn away from pizza, cupcakes, fried food or Doritos? It’s impossible. Prevention is key.

Store Cat Food High

Keep your cat’s food up high, so it’s out of your dog’s reach. Feed your cat on top of the washing machine, dryer or table, or create a kitty feeding station about five feet high, depending on your dog’s size. Your cat’s feeding area should be safe and in an easily accessible area. Please, refrain from feeding your cats on a moving washing machine and dryer—either turn it off or feed when not in use.

For older cats, create ramps made with non-skid or carpeted material. If made correctly, 90 percent of dogs won’t be able to scale a kitty ramp due to their size and agility. However, small dogs can easily figure it out, so it’s best to add a baby gate to keep them out.

Prop a Gate

If your dog is persistent and cat food is out at all times, it’s best to block your cat’s feeding area with a baby gate. Some dogs will spend hours trying to figure out how to scale the dryer. They’re determined to indulge in cat food. I firmly believe, if given plenty of opportunities, dogs will figure it out.

Choose a sturdy baby gate that can be easily hopped over by your cat. Most baby gates offer small openings made especially for cats to easily fit through, yet keep most dogs out. Sturdy is key because your dog may be able to and will push it down.

Hide Cat Food Bag

Cat food bags can easily be hidden behind closed doors. This will prevent most doggy gorging sessions. For persistent dogs, keep cat food in a tightly lidded container and place in a high cabinet with a closed door.

What Doesn’t Work

Punishing your dog while he’s swallowing mouthfuls of cat food doesn’t work. You may think punishment works, but in reality dogs will learn how to access cat food when you’re not around. They’ll learn punishment only happens when you’re around. Plus, most dogs will learn to eat cat food faster, as you approach because they know you’ll take it away. Punishment may seem to work at first, but it’s a slippery slope that usually backfires every time. Also, punishment can most certainly destroy the bond between you and your dog. Management and prevention work.

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Causes of Lick Granuloma

Lick Granuloma Overview

What is Lick Granuloma?