6 Reasons Why Your Dog Refuses to Eat

August 3, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Understanding Why Your Dog Won’t Eat

When dogs refuse to eat, it becomes a stressful situation. Before worrying, narrow down when, where and how often this happens to find a solution for the issue. As you read through each reason, note a theme. It’s either stress or illness just like us.

Now, if your dog is obviously sick, then I would immediately bring him to your veterinarian. It’s always a good decision to rule out illness first.

Unsure of Bowl

Believe it or not, it happens more than you think. Some dogs are allergic to ceramic or plastic bowls. These bowls can cause lip and nose infections, which sometimes includes discoloration (lighting of pigment) in the area. Plus, your dog will associate pain with his bowl and hence not eat.

Some dogs see their reflection in stainless steel bowls and it scares them a bit. A few dogs will bark at their face staring back at them, but most will learn to ignore it. However, some don’t, so switch your dog’s dish to glass, if needed.

Another Dog Stares

This is pretty common in multiple dog households. If you don’t know what to look for, it’s easily missed. When feeding dogs, it’s always best to separate them during meals times not only by distance, but visually as well. Having another dog give a death stare at his counterpart during meal times is disturbing and can easily scare a dog away from his bowl. This is called resource guarding.

Try tossing old towels or sheets over the staring dog’s crate. By setting up temporary visual barriers, you’ll likely notice your troublemaker settling down and eating much lower too–you’ve removed his target. Your other dog can now eat in peace.

Once both dogs eat their meals, pick up bowls, lift up visual barriers and allow your “death stare” dog out of his crate. Practice this ritual every meal because your staring dog will practice his behavior again.

Picky Dog

There’s nothing worse than putting a new dog food in your dog’s bowl, he takes one sniff and walks away! When finicky meal behavior rears its ugly head in, we’re at a lost, but do know we’ve usually made the situation worse by mistake.

Dogs hold out for better stuff and so do children. 🙂 Place your dog’s foot down for 20 minutes. If he doesn’t eat it, pick it up and try again that evening. If needed, add a bit of canned dog food to each meal. As I always say, who eats cake without frosting? Check out additional tips for picky eaters here.

Major Life Change

Divorce, new baby, new home, new spouse and even a new dog pal can send your dog into a spiraling spin of stress. And we all know stress can certainly cause inappetence.

When this happens, I highly recommend enticing your dog with added canned dog food or yogurt mixed into his daily meals. Right now, your dog needs a bit more attention. He’s confused and stressed with all the changes, so spend extra time walking or playing fetch in the yard. Also, give him something else to do like licking food stuffed toys.

If your dog is stressed due to a new baby arriving, stash bowls of dog treats in each room. Give your dog a treat every time your baby cries. Treat while the crying is happening, so he learns that crying means treats and that it’s a good thing.

If your dog is uncomfortable with your new spouse, ask your spouse to give your dog treats and bring him for walks to increase bonding. For new dogs added to your home, make sure they get along. Dogs don’t have control over new housemates like we do, so listen to them or seek guidance from a professional dog trainer.

Traveling

Stress is rearing her ugly head again. Refusing to eat during travel is likely due to new surroundings and change in routine. When traveling, keep your dog’s normal eating, walking, pottying and playing routine. This helps keep things predictable, which reduces your dog’s stress. If you travel frequently, your dog will soon become comfortable with traveling. If this is his first time, make sure it’s fun and positive. Again, I would recommend adding some yummy stuff to your dog’s meals to entice eating.

Dental Issues

This is also pretty common. It hurts to pick up, chew and swallow food with dental issues. Dogs eat the craziest things, and those things can most certainly harm teeth.

Usually, you’ll notice drooling and an odor emerging from his mouth. If possible, take a peek and look for foreign objects or obviously broken teeth. Unfortunately, broken, chipped, inflamed or cracked teeth are hard to find. Some teeth crack horizontally (slab fractures). When in doubt, a quick trip to the vet or veterinary dentist can rule it out.

Good luck!

Effectively Checking and Removing Ticks From a Dog

July 30, 2015 by Fanna Easter

How to Remove a Tick From a Dog

Just like you, I dislike checking my dogs for ticks. I’m scared I’ll find one, but every dog owner should know how to remove a tick from a dog, especially after visiting tick territory. Living in the South, I’ve learned to be proficient within a reasonable amount of time.

How to Remove Ticks From Dogs

Get Comfortable

Don’t rush the process. Get comfortable on the floor or sofa, and plan 10-30 minutes, depending on the size of your dog. Removing a tick from your dog works best when your dog is lying down. Fill a food stuffed toy with peanut butter (freeze overnight for longer results), so he can happily lick away while you check your dog for ticks.

Find your tweezers or whatever you use to remove ticks. Personally, I use my fingers. Also, keep flushable tissue paper and alcohol next to you just in case you find one. Never smash the tick. Kill it by tossing it in alcohol or cedar oil.

Halfway through, you’ll need to flip your dog over. Grab a yummy treat and lure your dog up and over onto his other side. You can totally shape and capture your dog lying on his side, and even cue with “left side” and “right side.”

Use Fingertips

Rather than rustling his coat from side to side, use your fingertips instead while you feel through his hair. Fingertips are much more sensitive and can feel tiny abnormalities, especially in heavy coated areas. By keeping fingertips close together, you’re less likely to miss ticks. Don’t laugh, but closing your eyes while running your fingertips along his skin will heighten your senses, which can help detect smaller ticks or tick dirt (i.e. fecal matter made of dried blood).

Ticks feel like skin tags when they’re attached to the skin. If you feel something, stop and part your dog’s hair to get a better look. If you find one, wipe the area with alcohol, so hair will stay out of the way. Sometimes, alcohol will cause a tick to slowly pull his head out of the skin. If this happens, wrap in alcohol-soaked toilet paper and flush.

If a nasty tick refuses to move, you’ll need to pull him out. Take a deep breath and grasp the tick close to the embedded head. Some use tweezers. However, I haven’t had much luck with removing a tick with tweezers because I tend to squeeze the tick’s body, which is not what you should do. I use my fingers and steadily pull outwards, keeping the tick perpendicular to my dog’s skin. You’ll be shocked how hard you’ll actually need to pull. Those suckers really embed themselves. Wrap ticks in alcohol-soaked toilet paper and flush. If there are several ticks, fill a jar with alcohol, toss them inside and close the jar.

After removing ticks from my dog, I smear antibiotic ointment along the reddened skin just in case. It’s up to you, but this keeps swelling and risk of infection low.

Do Feet First

Once your dog is lying down, start checking his feet. Lower extremities are prime targets for ticks, so make sure to check between toe digits and pads—ticks can hide anywhere. After checking the first foot, start feeling upwards toward your dog’s elbow, checking all cervices. Then, repeat on the other front foot until both hind legs have been checked. I usually stop at the top of the thigh.

Now, start checking your dog’s rear end, lifting his tail and checking the genital area thoroughly. Run closed fingertips along your dog’s underside from rear to front and then along his front thighs, ribcage, shoulder and chest. Check along the top of your dog’s body.

Lastly, comb your fingertips through your dog’s neck hair in small sections to ensure you don’t skip a spot. Run your fingertips along your dog’s face and look in his ears and mouth. I’m sure you’ve seen the photo of a tick embedded in a dog’s gums circling around Facebook—gross!

Time Well Spent

Usually, it takes 10-15 minutes to check small dogs for ticks and 30-40 minutes for larger dogs. Also, by checking your dog regularly, you’ll able to locate or monitor any lumps or bumps, which is very important for early detection. Lastly, it’s very calming for both dog and pet owner.

Hopefully, you didn’t find any ticks!

WATCH: Tick Removal Tips

Dog Breed of the Week: Labrador Retriever

July 29, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Meet the Labrador Retriever

Labrador Retrievers, also known as Labs, are ranked the most popular breed in the Sporting Group of the American Kennel Club. These dogs are very active, loving and enthusiastic, which is why many people choose to add them to their families. If this dog breed is on your wish list, then hopefully this article will give you some more insight into owning one of these wonderful dogs!

General Characteristics and Temperament

Labs are predominately a solid color with three variations, including yellow, chocolate and black. Yellow Labs can vary in hue from dark apricot (deep reddish yellow) to light gold–almost appearing white. Due to variations, white Labs are extremely uncommon. They’re basically a very light yellow Lab, so be wary of breeders toting rare white Labs at a higher price, as there’s really no such thing.

WATCH: How to Find a Good Dog Breeder

The Labrador Retriever is of medium size with an athletic body. They were bred for retrieving waterfowl and running for long periods of time. Their temperaments are well-balanced and sound, so they can endure loud sounds and rough environments.

Personally, I think they make wonderful family dogs for families that are active. They’re kind, gentle and suitable as a companion. In addition to being a working dog, they have a ton of energy.

Nutrition and Health

Labrador Retrievers tend to be healthy dogs with only a few health concerns, including hip and elbow dysplasia, eye disease and exercise-induced collapse. You can minimize the likelihood of your Lab encountering health issues by finding a responsible breeder who performs health testing before breeding dogs. Also, it’s very important to obtain a trusted veterinarian who sees your new family member for regular check-ups and vaccinations.

With any dog, it’s important to feed a well-balanced diet best suited for a dog’s specific needs. Most premium dry dog foods provide different blends that meet different dogs’ needs. They make dog food specific for puppies, large breeds, active dogs and senior dogs. Before choosing a food, speak with your veterinarian about your dog’s nutritional needs.

Labrador Retriever Grooming Needs

All Labs–yellow, black and chocolate–have a dense weather-resistant coat that enables them to retrieve waterfowl without being affected by the water temperature. I definitely recommend regular brushing to reduce shedding as well as bathing to remove excessive oil, which provides a waterproof-like barrier to their coats.

Labs shed every second of every minute. It’s quite common and expected. Make brushing your dog rewarding by pairing the experience with food or a play session. Smear peanut butter across a paper plate and brush your lab as he happily licks the plate.

Teeth

It’s recommended you prevent tartar buildup and gum disease, which can lead to heart disease, by brushing your dog’s teeth daily. Please make sure to use a dog-safe toothbrush and toothpaste.

Nails

Labs have powerful paws with fast-growing strong nails that require regular trimming, which can be done with nail clippers or a grinder. By keeping your Lab’s nails short, you will prevent splitting and overgrowth, which is very painful.

Dog Exercise and Training

Labrador Retrievers need daily exercise and mental stimulation. Remember, they were bred to work running in a field all day. If you’re considering getting a Lab, be ready for lots of play, exercise and training, so it’s important you have an active lifestyle. I have trained hundreds of Labs over the years and most had lots of energy. They are such driven, smart and energetic dogs that love to go, go and go!

It’s vital to begin teaching polite manners as soon as possible. This builds a good relationship and good manners with your new best friend. Make training fun by incorporating things your Lab likes in training, such as fetch and water play. Don’t forget your Lab will require daily exercise to help burn some of that natural energy he would use in the field.

Conclusion

As a dog trainer, I highly recommend Labs for first-time dog owners or families. Check out additional Labrador Retriever-related links below if you’re interested in furthering your knowledge on this awesome breed!

Sources:
www.akc.org
www.akc.org/dog-breeds/rescue-network

Leaving Your Dog Home Alone Tips

July 28, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Tips for Leaving Your Dog Home Alone

Unlike teenagers, there isn’t a specific age that marks home alone freedom for dogs. It’s more about their behavior. Usually, most dogs have learned to potty outdoors and chew on their toys instead of yours around two years of age. Some dogs learn sooner while others learn later. Plus, staying home alone should be taught and not assumed, so set your dog up for success before handing out privileges.

Potty Train Your Dog

Yes, your dog definitely needs to be potty trained first. Complete freedom in your home is earned once your dog understands to potty outdoors and not in your home. Never leave your dog home alone for long periods of time unless he knows how to use a dog door, or someone is available to bring him outdoors to relieve himself. Dogs should not be expected to hold it for eight hours–that’s a long time.

If you notice potty accidents inside your home during the home alone trial, your dog is not ready for unlimited freedom yet. Take a few steps back and focus on potty training. Once your dog is potty accident-free for two months, you’re ready to try it again.

Train Your Dog to Chew on His Toys

Chewing should be a distant memory. Your dog should enjoy chewing on his toys rather than molding or walls. If your dog has usually enjoyed plenty of time loose in the house with you and he’s learned to ignore toilet paper, shoes, rugs or anything else enticing, then maybe he’s ready to enter a trial phase.

To set your dog up for success, remove enticing items and put them away. Now, bring out your dog’s toys, so he’ll have plenty of options to entertain and keep himself busy.

Start in a Small Space First

If potty accidents are non-existent and chewing is a thing of the past, then it’s time to try leaving your dog home alone for a short period of time. Instead of allowing free rein of the house, start small and gate off small areas in the beginning.

Usually, the living room is an excellent starting place, as your dog usually spends most evenings chilling with the family. Block off doorways with secure gates. Don’t forget to close bedroom and bathroom doors, then scatter toys about in his space and leave a few frozen food stuffed toys to keep him busy. If your dog barks or goes berserk when looking through windows, close curtains and blinds, put up a barrier to keep him from pushing window treatments sideways, and gate rooms with windows.

After several successful attempts, move gates back and try a larger area. Repeat weekly until your dog is completely comfortable with freedom throughout the house. Some dogs get a bit freaked out with too much freedom too fast, so move slowly and at your dog’s pace.

Leave Your Dog Alone for Short Periods

Try leaving your dog indoors alone while you’re mowing the grass or working in the yard. You’re still around and can check in frequently. If all goes well for a week, try leaving him alone while running short errands (one to two hours long). Slowly extend alone time by 30-minute increments.

For best results, bring your dog for a long walk before you leave. This ensures he snoozes while you’re gone. Don’t forget to scatter frozen stuffed toys throughout the area. He’ll stay busy for hours and likely leave your furniture and molding alone. 🙂

Avoid Leaving Two Dogs Home Alone

Oh, this is a tough one for me. As a dog trainer, I’ve heard horror stories. I don’t want to scare you, but proceed with caution. I know dogs that have lived together and stayed home alone for years without incident until a severe thunderstorm rolled in and caused a scared dog to fatally injure his housemate. Also, there’s this nasty little thing called redirected aggression that happens between dogs when something exciting is going on, such as the ringing of doorbells. Personally, I don’t recommend leaving two dogs alone all day. If so, at least separate them with gates.

Understand Mistakes Happen

Just when all is going well, you’ll come home to a toilet paper party in the bathroom. Or you’ll find potty accidents hidden in certain rooms. If this happens, go back to confining your dog when you leave. It’s not his fault. You may have moved too fast too soon. It’s not forever. You’re spending time teaching your dog to ignore the delightfully dangling toilet paper sheet and to potty outdoors again. If all goes well, it’s time to try it again. Or, if you’re like me, I never leave my dogs loose indoors while away. I put them in their dog crates where they happily snore away. Just move slowly and set your dog up for success!

What Did You Call My Dog? Correct Dog Breed Names

July 27, 2015 by Fanna Easter

Dog Breed Names

Don’t Let Adjectives Fool You

When someone describes a Mastiff as an English Mastiff, the little hairs on the back of my neck stand straight up. You’re probably asking, “Why? It’s just a name, right?” Well, it’s a mispronunciation of a proper noun (breed of dog).

With all the horrible things happening daily, why are my hackles raised by this issue? Is it because my name is mispronounced 20 times per day? Maybe.

Or it could be when someone adds a point of origin (English) placed strategically in front of a proper breed name (Mastiff), it implies a bit of superiority (my English Mastiff is better than your Mastiff). Yes, that’s it, especially when someone emphasizes the added adjective. Not only does it denote highbrow smarty pants, but it is also used to deceive. It’s a pet peeve of mine, as I’m sure you can certainly tell. 🙂

Before other countries begin a debate, let’s be clear: I’m talking about breeds of dogs recognized by the AKC and UKC. 🙂

It’s All Marketing, Folks

Another reason it rubs me the wrong way is adjectives are used by deceptive breeders to market their dogs to unsuspecting puppy buyers. Think about it: Chinese Pugs look and sound much more appealing than their proper name (Pug). Just reading or hearing the word “Chinese,” your brain secretly transports itself to Shanghai and you’re envisioning silk-wrapped Pugs trotting effortlessly along the Great Wall of China. Allow me to pop your bubble. 🙂

This is called marketing: someone is trying to sell their product by indulging in your secret need to possess something others don’t have. Before you blush, it’s normal human behavior. Sometimes, we fall for slick wording and advertising.

Reputable breeders use proper breed names because they’re part of a breed club, which helps develop the AKC and UKC breed standard. Now, this makes me swoon! These folks are preserving (or changing, depending on breed traits) and improving Pugs, Mastiffs and their chosen breeds.

Grammar Police

It’s Rottweiler and not German Rottweiler. In Germany, they’re called Rottweilers too–place of origin not included. If I had a penny every time someone asked if Sobek was a German Rott, I could pave Interstate 10 from beginning to end. Instead, I reply back, “Nope, he’s from Virginia.”

One time, some dog owners introduced me to their Imperial Royal Shih Tzu. Wowza! Personally, I think “Shih Tzu” is striking on its own (and it’s correct).

By the way, it’s Bull Terrier or Miniature Bull Terrier and not English Bull Terrier. While they originated from England, Stella Mae is a Miniature Bull Terrier born in South Carolina. 🙂

Beware of Adjectives & Mispronunciations

When clicking on a picture of Australian Peek-a-Poo puppies, understand their parents were a Pekingese and Poodle, and must’ve been born in Australia. If their address states Alabama or Wisconsin, it’s deceitful and false advertising at its best. Stay away.

By all means, if a dog breeder mispronounces a breed, run away. I’ve heard Bichon Frise called “B*tchs in freeze,” Shih Tzus pronounced as “Sh#t zoos,” Rottweilers referred to as “Rock wallets” and French Bulldogs labeled as “Frenchton Bulldogs.” Yeah, no. If a dog breeder or breed expert can’t pronounce a breed’s name correctly, they have no clue about breed standards.

To protect yourself, it’s vital to research your chosen breed and that means visiting AKC or UKC’s website for correct pronunciation of the breed and the breed standard. Check out tips on finding reputable breeders here.

WATCH: Proper Dog Breed Names: No Such Thing as “Chinese” Pugs or “English” Mastiffs

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