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How To Teach Your Dog Polite Leash Manners

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Polite Leash Walking

Polite Leash Manners
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Dogs pull on leash because they haven’t been taught differently. It’s up to pet owners to positively teach dogs polite leash manners, and it’s actually much easier than most pet owners think. All you need are: a clicker (or marker word), 4-foot nylon leash, body harness, your dog and lots of super yummy treats. These tips will help your dog learn polite leash manners in no time!

What are Polite Leash Manners?

Polite leash manners are when dogs are able to walk on leash without pulling. This behavior is different than “heel” in that a dog is able to walk around his pet owner and sniff. Heel is very formal, which requires the dog to walk next to his pet owner’s right leg. Polite leash manners let dogs explore while staying close to their pet owners.

Choosing Dog Training Treats

Using super yummy treats will greatly increase your chances of success. Treats are your dog’s paycheck for a job well done, so reward generously. Use baked chicken, cheese cubes, hot dogs or deli meat as rewards. These treats won’t upset your dog’s tummy if given in pea-size bites during training sessions.

Also, giving your dog human food won’t teach dogs to beg. Dogs learn to beg when people give them food from their plates. 🙂

RELATED: 6 Ridiculous, Yet Common Dog Myths

My Dog Pulls Like a Freight Train

This is common, especially with larger dogs that have learned to pull on leash. Leash pulling is dangerous because strong pulling dogs can easily knock their pet owners over. If your dog pulls, try using a front clip harness. This piece of equipment will give you control during walks until your dog learns polite leash manners.

One Step at a Time

Teach your dog polite leash manners slowly until your dog understands that walking on a loose leash is rewarding. Practice indoors and start by taking one step forward and wait until your dog stops pulling on the leash. Many pet owners are so used to their dogs pulling on leash that they have a hard time understanding when to reward their dogs.

Zone in on the pressure of the leash in your hand instead of the dog’s position to you. When you feel any tension on the leash, stop and wait for your dog to release this pressure. The moment you feel this pressure release, say “yes” and give your dog a treat reward.

Pro tip: Hold your dog’s earned treat next to your leg, so he returns to you for his treat. Feeding your dog earned treats next to your leg teaches your dog that hanging around you is rewarding.

Practice taking one step forward at a time while waiting for a loose leash (i.e. no leash pressure) and always reward generously. It’s best to practice for 10 single steps forward (10 times to practice good behavior) each day. Soon, your dog will learn that a loose leash pays well!

Take 3 Steps Forward

Take 3 steps forward and wait. Usually, most dogs will pull at first, but wait for a loose leash.  Say “yes” the moment you feel leash pressure release and reward your dog. If your dog doesn’t pull on the leash during and after taking 3 steps forward, immediately click and reward good behavior. YAY!

Continue practicing for 1-2 more minutes, then end the training session. Once you’re able to walk around your home or backyard, with minimal leash pulling, it’s time to practice one step at a time in your neighborhood. Remember, neighborhoods are distracting, so take a step back to set your dog up for success. Practice daily for 1-2 minutes, then end your training session.

Reward Good Behavior Every 4 Steps

Once your dog learns to walk politely on leash, it’s important to continue rewarding good behavior or you’ll lose it. Pet owners get into a groove and forget to reward their dogs for good behavior, so set up a strategy for success.

Bring treats along during your walks, and reward your dog every 4 steps for a week. During walks, stopping and rewarding your dog after 4 steps forward provides a high rate of reinforcement and a reminder to pet owners to reward good behavior. In the following week, reward your dog every 5 steps and so on. When rewarding your dog, mark your dog’s good behavior and hold his earned treat next to your pant leg.

Give Dogs Plenty of Sniffing Time—With One Rule

Sniffing opportunities are a vital part of walks. They’re an excellent form of mental enrichment and a great reward for good behavior. Dogs have an amazing sense of smell, and they really enjoy sniffing where bunnies were playing or dogs posted “pee” social media mail. Dogs should have plenty of sniffing opportunities, but with one rule.

If your dog pulls you toward a certain spot, stop and wait for your dog’s leash to loosen. The moment you feel slack in your dog’s leash, start walking toward your dog’s sniffing spot. Once your dog is done sniffing, continue your walk.

Polite leash manners are a learned skill, so practice and reward often to maintain it!

WATCH: How to Teach Your Dog Polite Leash Manners

Use A Positive Interrupter Cue To Stop Bad Dog Behavior

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How to Stop Bad Dog Behavior

Dog Behavior
Christian Müller/Adobe Stock

Dogs will be dogs. They bark, run away, chase squirrels, dig, rough house and get super excited. Interestingly, these unwanted behaviors are natural dog behaviors; they’re part of being a dog. Dogs don’t understand why humans find these fun behaviors so annoying.

To stop bad dog behaviors, many pet owners tend to scream “no” or physically punish their dogs. However, there’s a more positive way to interrupt your dog’s behavior. Interrupter cues stop unwanted behaviors by having your dog do something else. Learn how you can incorporate this cue in your training.

Choose a Positive Interrupter Cue

An interrupter cue stops unwanted behavior, so you can redirect your dog’s attention. Yelling “no”or “stop it” doesn’t work, and it will likely frighten your dog. Plus, pet owners tend to become angry when saying “no,” which snowballs into an angry hot mess.

Using a positive word as an interrupter makes a huge difference. Try screaming “no” out loud; it’s a bit scary as it echoes out of your mouth. Now scream “cupcake” out loud. Can you hear and feel the difference? It’s hard to be angry when screaming “cupcake” unless that’s your dog’s name and she’s running away from you. 🙂 This tiny difference is why it’s so important to choose a positive and fun word as an interrupter cue.

An interrupter cue can be a verbal cue (“treat”) or physical cue (one finger touches dog’s body). When choosing a verbal cue, pick something fun and quick, such as:

  • Treat
  • That’ll do
  • Woohoo
  • Cupcake
  • Sprinkles
  • Tequila
  • Beer
  • Cookie

While it’s tempting to use your dog’s name, many pet owners have used it so much that their dogs ignore it. Some pet owners sound like they’re screaming “no” when saying their dogs’ name too, so use a new cue. For hearing impaired dogs, a simple finger touch on their back works beautifully as an interrupter cue.

Once you’ve chosen a positive interrupter cue, pair it with super yummy food.

How to Introduce an Interrupter Cue

Grab lots of super yummy treats, such as baked chicken, chopped up hot dogs or cheese cubes. Treats are your dog’s paycheck, so skip commercial dog treats and use the good stuff! The better the treat, the faster your dog will respond to an interrupter cue.

Start Indoors First

An interrupter cue stops your dog from doing a specific behavior. When your dog is walking forward or looking out of a window, an interrupter cue will stop this behavior. Once a behavior is stopped, it’s important to reward your dog for doing something else like stopping the previous behavior and looking at you.

Start with your dog in the living room and say your interrupter cue. The moment your dog turns around and looks at you, say “yes” (marker word) and give your dog a treat. Practice this behavior 5 times in a row, and then end it. Continue to practice in short training sessions indoors and reward your dog every time he responds to the interrupter cue.

Once your dog responds to the interrupter cue 90% of the time, use the interrupter cue randomly throughout the day. While watching TV, if your dog barks out the window, say “treat” and generously reward your dog when she stops barking and looks at you. Drop your dog’s earned treat at your feet, so your dog walks over to get the treat. This teaches your dog to hang around you instead of the window.

Practice Outdoors

When your dog becomes really good at this behavior indoors (i.e. responds 90% of the time), it’s time to practice the behavior outdoors. Leash your dog and practice saying the interrupter cue, marking and rewarding this behavior for 1-2 minutes. Practice daily for 1-2 minutes with your dog on leash.

Keeping your dog on leash during the first steps of the learning process prevents your dog from wandering off and increases your chances of success. Once your dog will respond quickly to your interrupter cue, take your dog’s leash off and practice saying your interrupter cue and generously reward good behavior.

Using an Interrupter Cue With Multiple Dogs

If you share your home with multiple dogs, practice introducing an interrupter cue indoors with one dog first. Once the first dog responds to your interrupter cue 90% of the time, bring another dog into the mix. Mark and reward each dog when she responds. Once all dogs respond quickly, it’s time to practice with one leashed dog at a time outdoors.

When to Use an Interrupter Cue

Once your dog consistently responds to an interrupter cue, it’s time to use this valuable cue when your dog is barking, playing roughly or digging. Remember, an interrupter cue will only stop bad dog behavior, so ask your dog to do something else.

When indoors, most dogs will stop and look at you once they hear the interrupter cue, so reward this behavior generously. If your dog is in another room or outdoors, say the interrupter cue and toss the reward next to your feet. This will stop your dog’s unwanted behavior and teach him to come to you for the treat. When dogs are playing too roughly, say the interrupter cue and reward each dog the moment she stops playing and looks at you.

It’s important to note that an interrupter cue is different than the “look at me” cue because the interrupter cue is used to stop your dog’s unwanted behavior (barking), so you can redirect him to do something else (look at you). Of course, you can certainly reward your dog the moment she stops barking with a marker word and toss a treat next to your feet. Usually though, unless the dog walks away from the window or digging pit, the unwanted behavior will quickly resume.

What If the Unwanted Behavior Happens Again?

Sometimes, barking, playing and chasing squirrels resumes immediately after hearing an interrupter cue. When this happens, say the interrupter cue again and remove your dog from the situation. Close blinds for window barking, separate rough playing dogs temporarily and bring your dog indoors. This prevents dogs from reengaging in the behavior.

Make interrupter cues more fun than barking, digging and playing, and you’ve hit the jackpot!

Your Dog Is Anxious, Now What?

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Behavior Protocol for Dog Anxiety

Dog Anxiety
mdennah/Adobe Stock

It’s a difficult moment when a dog trainer confirms your sneaking suspicion: your dog has anxiety. While it’s something you always kind of knew, it’s still difficult to digest once a professional confirms it. Before freaking out, and withdrawing from society, there are steps that can help reduce your dog’s anxiety. These tips will help get you started on a behavior protocol for success.

Take a deep breath, summon all your patience and get busy teaching your dog that scary things make good things happen. It works!

Stop the Trigger Exposure

Give your dog a trigger-free siesta from scary stuff. This will reduce your dog’s stress level and prevent your dog from practicing unwanted behavior (e.g. barking, lunging, running away, etc.). This seems simple, but it’s very difficult for most pet owners. A “trigger-free” siesta means halting all trigger exposure until your dog learns how to handle scary exposure positively. A undetermined “behavior” siesta will have a profound effect on your and your dog’s success.

During your dog trainer’s consultation, your dog’s triggers were likely discussed in detail. Triggers are events or things that cause your dog to become anxious. If your dog is afraid of meeting new people, stop all greetings immediately. When guests come over, crate your dog in another room (away from guests) with a food stuffed toy and play soft music in the background.

Many dogs are afraid of other dogs, so stop all dog-to-dog greetings and daycare events immediately. If you’re unsure of your dog’s triggers, consult a professional dog trainer who has experience working with anxious dogs.

Put a Plan Into Place

During the consultation, your professional dog trainer should provide you a list of recommended behaviors to reduce your dog’s anxiety. Of course, a trigger-free siesta should be the first step.

Next, your dog trainer should explain, demonstrate and provide a dog training plan with exact steps for the next 2 to 3 weeks. It may seem odd teaching your dog “touch” and “leave it” when your goal is to reduce your dog’s anxiety, but there’s a reason for it.

Teaching your dog to do something else, instead of freaking out, works great. Once your dog is ready and willing to greet people, “touch” is a non-confrontational way to greet guests. Also, your dog trainer should recommend tips for counter conditioning and desensitizing your dog to scary triggers, which is another important part of your dog’s behavior protocol.

Follow Your Training Plan

Training sessions should be short and fun with lots of yummy rewards. Practicing over and over again becomes exhausting so much so that many dogs will react or quit. Keep dog training sessions to 1-2 minutes long, and progress to the next step only when your dog is ready. Work at your dog’s pace, and reward generously!

Follow Up With a Dog Trainer

Solving complex dog behavior issues within a one-hour consultation is impossible, so plan to follow up with your dog trainer regularly. On average, plan a virtual phone consult every 2 weeks and an in-person consult monthly.

Each session will build upon itself until your dog’s anxiety is reduced. Skipping regular follow-up sessions will certainly halt your dog’s training process, so it’s important to have a professional guide you through the next steps.

When to Seek Additional Help

Sometimes, dogs and pet owners need additional help and that is OK. Professional dog trainers will bring in veterinary behaviorists when progress has halted. Many times, dog trainers will reach out to fellow dog trainers for a second opinion, which is a wonderful way to identify any issues. Partnership is critical when progress has stopped, so ask your dog trainer for a second opinion to boost your success.

Anxiety in dogs is quite common, but you can help reduce it by following these steps. Remember to always reach out for help when progress halts or regresses. 

How To Teach A Dog To Ask You To Potty

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Training Your Dog to Ask You to Potty

Dog Training Tips
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Potty training is a difficult part of sharing your home with a dog. If only puppies and dogs were pre-programmed to potty outside. 🙂 But that’s not the case, and it’s the pet owner’s job to teach a dog to potty outdoors.

Crate training and following a schedule are the foundations of potty training, but sometimes puppies and dogs need to potty regardless of a schedule. In this case, teach your dog a cue that tells you he needs to potty. Here’s how to teach your dog to ask you to potty and a few easy cues to use.

“Hello, I Need to Potty” Cue Ideas

Pick an easily visible behavior that your dog does often, and teach your dog that this specific behavior means “I’ll open the door, so you can potty.” Picking a cue is the hard part, so pick something easy. Here’s a list of easy cues that most dogs and puppies offer daily.

  • Sitting by the back door. This cue only works if you’re able to see your dog sitting next to the door.
  • Dog walks over and sits in front or side of you. (Dog trainer recommended!)
  • Puppy or dog looks at you, then the back door.
  • Walking toward the back door.
  • Sitting on a special mat placed in an easily visible area like in the living room or in front of the TV.
  • One or two barks at the door.

Choose only one cue and stick with it, and make sure you’re able to see your dog offer this behavior or it will become meaningless.

RELATED: Why Your Potty Trained Dog Pees in the House

How to Reinforce “I Need to Potty” Cue

Once you and your entire family have chosen a “I need to potty” cue, it’s time to teach your dog what the cue means. Every time your dog offers this cue, immediately get up and let your dog outside to potty.

When cooking dinner, keep an eye on your puppy and immediately bring your puppy out to potty when he offers this behavior. If you’re unable to keep an eye on your dog or puppy, put him inside his crate with a food stuffed toy.

For example, when potty training my Rottweiler, I noticed a peculiar behavior. He walked over and pushed the mini-blinds with his nose, which I assumed meant, “I need to go outside now.” I jumped up and let him out to potty.

From then on, he pushes the blinds when he needs to potty. 🙂 He learned that lightly pushing a specific blind in the living room with his nose would make me get up and open the back door for him. While this can become a pestering issue later, it’s an easy fix. Right now, it’s important to teach your dog how to ask you for a potty break.

Continue to reinforce this dog behavior, and soon your dog or puppy will learn how to tell you, “Hey, I need to potty.”

Next Time Someone Wants To Greet Your Dog, Ask Your Dog First

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Give Your Dog Choices During Greetings

Dog Greeting Behavior
tamifreed/Adobe Stock

It’s all about choices, especially for dogs. Let’s face it: Dogs really don’t have many choices in life. Dogs don’t choose their roommates (i.e. other dogs), veterinarian, food, treats, daily walking path and potty times.

While I have discussed choices extensively in other articles, let’s discuss giving our dogs choices when they’re meeting other dogs or people. It’s important to note that many dogs react aggressively during greetings because they’re scared. They don’t want to meet other dogs or people, so they run away or lunge forward to stop introductions. Giving your dog a choice during greetings will drastically reduce fearful dog behavior.

Not All Dogs Want to Meet Other Dogs & People

There’s a huge human social element when dogs meet other dogs and people. Most pet owners are painfully embarrassed when their dog dislikes greetings, but they don’t know how to handle the situation. No one enjoys saying “no” to strangers or children; some may even feel conflicted, especially if their dog dislikes greetings.

Pet owners hold their breath, hoping the greeting will be better than the last one, so they stand rigidly holding their breath while their dog’s eyes widen. But there is a better way—a human socially acceptable way to stop this from happening.

Do know, most dogs are uncomfortable with greetings even if they’re meeting friendly people. If this helps, my dogs don’t meet other dogs on leash and I’m a professional dog trainer. When my dogs meet people, I give them choices during the greeting and I support my dogs’ decisions overtime.

Ask the Dog First

In the past, I instructed pet owners to say, “We’re training. No petting please” to strangers, children and other dogs when they approached for greetings. While it worked to keep others away from their dog, many pet owners felt awkward and a bit rude during these “no, stop it” interactions.

There had to be a better way that worked for everyone, especially the dog. The method I now use and tell my clients is the “Asking the dog first” method. It’s a socially acceptable way of disrupting a greeting while allowing your dog to make a choice.

Next time someone barrels toward your dog with an outreached hand, asking to pet your dog, step between your dog and the person and say, “Let’s ask my dog first.” If your dog walks over and greets the person, then reinforce calm behavior (i.e. no jumping and sitting politely for petting).

If your dog decides not to engage, respect your dog’s choice and explain, “Well, he’s feeling a bit shy today and that’s okay, so we’ll respect his choice. Maybe next time.” Many pet lovers graciously understand this explanation because no one wants to force a dog to do something he doesn’t want to do.

When Your Dog Chooses to Disengage, It’s Okay!

When your dog makes a choice, support his decision every time. Yes, it’s uncomfortable watching your dog choose to disengage and the person’s feelings may be hurt. Instead of standing quietly and awkwardly, take a moment and explain why choices are so important for dogs.

[perfectpullquote align=”right” cite=”” link=”” color=”” class=”” size=””]When your dog makes a choice, support his decision every time. [/perfectpullquote]

Lightheartedly explain, “Dogs really don’t have many choices in this world, so this is my way of offering my dog choices and it works well for both of us.” Not only are you supporting your dog’s choice, but you’re also planting the seed that dogs need choices. Soon, pet lovers will mimic this behavior, which will drastically reduce dog bites and prevent aggression.

Choices are everything!

Dog Training Nation is a dog training blog for pet owners and dog lovers. We cover a range of topics from puppy socialization tips to dog aggression to dog health. It is our hope you share our content to make the world a better place for dogs.

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